od Murphy
grew up in a Connecticut
farming community. After
thirty years of work in
the food distribution industry,
the longing for green pastures
and fresh air pulled him
back to his farming origins.
He bought some land in Vermont
and began to raise sheep.
The nostalgia for country
life eventually faded and
reality set in: unless you
can provide colossal volumes,
market access is virtually
impossible. All was not
lost! Murphy grabbed his
sheep herder’s stick
and gathered around him
a small team of believers
and undertook a rather auspicious
project, the Farmers Diner
restaurant, which opened
six years ago.
Right on Main street in
Barre, Vermont, with some
8,000 residents, Murphy
opened his no-frills family
restaurant. And I’m
sure some of its particularities
would make you smile. The
restaurant sells t-shirts
with the inscription: “I
prefer butter to margarine
because I trust farmers
more than chemists”.
Furthermore, they provide
an explanation as to why
whipped cream isn’t
naturally snow white. The
walls aren’t decorated
with posters of Marilyn
and Elvis, but with pictures
of farmers. Because, as
you see, beyond the needs
of Tod Murphy’s company,
the Farmers Diner has turned
into a project for acknowledging
the role of farmers and
the local farming community.
They say that the average
meal travels thousands of
kilometres before reaching
our dinner table. In fact,
Alberta beef, New Zealand
lamb, California vegetables
and tropical fruit are now
part of our daily diet.
An economic and ecological
aberration for sure. At
the Farmers Diner, over
65¢ of every food dollar
purchased is spent within
a 100 kilometre radius.
The Farmers Diner focuses
on fresh food and fair compensation
for farmers. The menu is
simple and affordable, the
most expensive item is a
hot turkey sandwich for
$7.95. Besides, it’s
for a good cause: the restaurant
is helping to revive the
local economy. Highly praised
by the New York Times Magazine,
the Farmers Diner attracts
students and eco-minded
individuals from all walks
of life, as well as some
serious looking men in business
suits. Seventeen employees
run the restaurant. Well…
they did until recently.
The latest information is
that the restaurant is closed
for restructuring. Too small
to be profitable, the Farmers
Diner must expand its premises
and find new suppliers.
Well, if Murphy has to seek
financing options, he may
as well adjust his plans.
What he is now proposing
is a network of restaurants
that would get their supplies
from regional producers
and take advantage of greater
savings and still provide
small-scale producers with
an essential and much needed
market opportunity.
Is Tod Murphy a hopeless
dreamer? Maybe, but his
gamble has a lot of logic
to it. The small farmer
is barely able to access
supermarket shelves and
consumers are becoming increasingly
demanding and concerned
with the food they’re
ingesting. So, Murphy’s
philosophy is to place both
parties together in premises
that are ever more popular
with consumers: the restaurant!
According to a study submitted
to Cornell University, each
million dollar of annual
sales for this type of restaurant
saves 10 tons of CO2 emissions,
supports local agriculture,
and creates new jobs. From
the perspective of sustainable
development, these are social
and environmental fallouts
that should be considered
when evaluating the project’s
cost effectiveness. But,
let’s be realistic:
investors will undoubtedly
be sceptical and Murphy
will have quite a challenge
in front of him. Will they
take him seriously? Will
he be forced to chop off
his ponytail and wear a
tie (the sacrifices are
indeed endless!)? Will he
be able to manage his company’s
growth without compromising
the incredible work that
has already been accomplished?
So many questions remain…
but count on me: I’ll
be keeping an eye on things.